Hi, my names Rachael, and I think I'm addicted to making winter coats.

I am so pleased with how my new Butterick coat turned out, and the fabric is just gorgeous and so warm. Not going to lie though, I didn't think I would be able to use it originally.

I have a fear of cotton wool (I know, its stupid but it is very real), and I can't touch it (or actually be anywhere near it, but that's more than I needed to share) and this vegan wool effect fabric on first touch covered me in goosebumps and had me thinking that I'd have to get my daughter to repackage it and return it. I can't explain the feel of it but if you have the same phobia you'll understand. That doesn't mean it isn't a gorgeous fabric because it absolutely is, which is why I decided to persevere and I'm so glad I did. Once it was in a single layer I had no issues with it. It was lovely to sew with and there was no looking back. It is gorgeous to the touch, and I have been stroked and hugged on numerous occasions because of it's wonderful softness.

I had a slight disappointment after I had cut out, in that there was a slight imperfection on the back of the coat. I ummed and erred for quite a while… certainly longer than I should have, and then actually got on with putting a band on the back. I actually quite like it and it makes it slightly different from the last coat… as does the fact that I'd managed to make the coat come down in a straighter line from the neck.

I also challenged myself by using viscose for the lining. it terrifies me as it absolutely has a mind of it's own, but I've learnt to cut carefully and just be brave. It is a beautiful fabric, and I added it behind the band on the back too… just so there's a little flash of colour.

I corrected all my learning curves from making the last coat and I am so pleased with the results. I used sleeve head roll as my fabulous sewing companion for my last Lisette Coat @Sew Unique recommended when making her beautiful coat.

So this is my weekend coat, my grey one is for school… but I'm thinking I need a bright pink one so that I don't have to feel so precious about it getting dirty.

Oh and thank you Minerva for my second free Minerva Woven Label… so pleased that both my coats have them.

#minervamaker #Minerva #Freebie #minervamakes #sewhappy

This Lagan coat (design by Itch to Stitch) is my #BestOf2021 make I'm really proud of. It was amzing to be able to sew a coat in gorgous woolllen fabric, with shoulder pads, lining, etc. It made me feel an accomplished seamstress. Now I need to tackel the daunting task of fitting pants...my 2022 sewing goal!

#itchtostitch #lagancoat #sewingcoats #sewingouterwears

A bit of challenge is a good thing, right? I already sewed my 2022 Sewing Challenge with that great Luzerne trench coat (it can be se seen here: https://www.minerva.com/posts/1134742), but I wanted another challenge.
Hence came the idea of sewing a woven blazer, something timeless, but with a twist.

I had bought Pauline Alice’s Saler pattern when it was first released. It seems that 2022 will be the year of “patterns bought, never sewn”!

The Saler jacket is your typical blazer pattern with all the bells and whistles. I fell in love with the curved front bottoms and the lovely welt pockets. Shoulder pads and sleeve heads along with multiple layers of interfacing make for a tailored jacket.

Such a sewing project needed a muslin. I started with a straight size 42 (sizing ranges from FR34 to FR48).
Muslin assessment showed that the back was way too wide, the armscyes were way beyond my shoulder joints, and the collar was way too close to my ears! Actually, nothing was new to me, they are standard adjustments for me. However, the length was spot-on, with the curve of the waist right on my natural waist. It’s drafted for a height=165 cm (I’m 164 cm) with a B cup.

I shortened the center back by 6 mm, I narrowed the shoulders, and reduced the slope of the shoulder. These alterations took me a whole week because the pattern is made of numerous pieces and, for instance, the front and back have princess seams. So you need to alter all of these pieces.

I ended up sewing a size 38 for the armholes/sleeves/shoulders blended to 42 at the waist/hips. I really love a fitted jacket at the bust and upper body. The Saler jacket is meant for people with a B cup, but I’ m rather hollow at the upper bust and I had too much fabric there, making the jacket ill-fitting.

Once I was done with the alterations, it was high time to cut the good fabric.
Look at this fabric! Isn’t it lovely with its golden Lurex threads and its plaid pattern? Wasn’t I ambitious to try and match those checks on princess seams?!?
I tried and did my best, taking more than 6 hours for cutting. I started from the center back and progressed toward the front. SO MANY pieces! Fortunately for me, this was a regular plaid pattern.

I found the process of sewing rather easy, thanks to having sewn the muslin. There are many notches to help assembling the pieces. Interfacing is of paramount importance in a blazer and since my fabric was rather soft and lightweight, I used Vilene G 785 and straight grain tape for the break line. Some parts have 3 layers of interfacing so take your time and let each layer cool off before adding the next one.

The lining is made of golden liquid satin. It’s rather thick and was so easy to sew.

All in all, the sewing part went well, but I’m pretty sure there’s something wrong with the sleeves: they had too much ease and the side seams didn’t match at the seam lines. At first, when sewing my muslin, I thought I had gone off grain when cutting, resulting in a stretchy sleeve cap. However, I had the same trouble with my good fabric. I managed to make it look good by slightly moving the notches. I’ll need to walk the seam lines on both upper and lower sleeve parts to check if they’re the same length.
I was concerned with sewing the welt pockets with flaps, but the instructions were really clear and that was fun. I did a lot of basting and tailor’s tacks because that fabric didn’t handle chalk well. I took extra care to get this jacket right!
The collar was also a first and It was rather pleasing to have it stand up so well.

I added some extra steps like understitching the front facings. First, I understitched the front to the facing from the bottom to the breaking point then I understitched the facing to the front from the breaking point up.
I also tacked the sleeve hems so they will stay nice and sharp overtime.

My buttons came from my stash. I love big buttons and the ones on the front are matte, not glossy. Perfect!

I’ll probably sew another Saler jacket next winter, but this time with a a size 40/44 blending because I can’t really put on any other garment thicker than a t-shirt underneath this Saler jacket.

Isn't it cute paired with another Minerva project (my skinny denim Ginger: https://www.minerva.com/posts/1129230)

#minervabrandambassador #paulinealice #salerjacket #blazer #sewingouterwears #lurex #tweed #suiting #tailoredjacket #minervamakers #minervamakes

Just finished my big winter coat project! This is a vintage Calvin Klein pattern from the 90s (Vogue 2027) in the most perfect Virgin Wool Coating from Lady McElroy. I wanted it to be very oversized for comfort and to layer over big sweaters all winter long. My style inspiration for this was Aime Leon Dore's fall collection, plus a little bit of the Olson Twins and Princess Di (who else has finished the most recent season of The Crown??). I think there's something so cool and classic about an oversized, genderless coat. It goes as well with sweats as it does with a dress (though these days I'm mostly wearing sweats).

My modifications to the pattern included swapping single welt pockets for patch pockets, widening the collar by 1 inch, and redrafting the lapel to be a notched lapel. I also fully lined the jacket, and underlined the lining in cotton flannel for extra warmth. For lining fabric I used rayon bemberg, it has good strength and it's silky which helps with taking the jacket on and off.

I took my time hand tailoring the lapels and collar by pad stitching them to horsehair canvas. This was my first time pad stitching, I definitely have more to learn but I think it turned out well! It is so cool to see the 3d structure you are able to create as you stitch over the curve of your finger. I used a steamy iron to help set the shape of the collar and lapels to they fold beautifully by themselves. Any sewist who has worked with wool before can attest that a steamy iron + wool fabric = magic.

My favorite thing about this coat is the amount of work that goes into keeping the structure of it. On the last photo you can see there are interfaced welt pockets, the blue fabric is muslin to hold the corner of the welt pocket up (to keep it from drooping open), hair canvas through the lapels and back, twill tape on the lapel roll line, quilted hair canvas at the shoulders to keep them from collapsing, sleeve heads and (perhaps most importantly) shoulder pads. I actually used 2 shoulder pads in each arm for this since the sleeve has a lot of volume (this pattern is from the 90s after all...).

So... you want to make a tailored coat but wondering where to start? I suggest picking up a tailoring book in addition to your pattern. I like "Tailoring: The Classic Guide to Sewing the Perfect Jacket" because it has lots of photographs to illustrate the different steps. Don't want to commit to fully tailoring a jacket but want to up your coat making game? Using sleeve heads and shoulder pads are (in my opinion) necessary for adding a really professional looking finish to your garment.

Some Back-to-school for me. Since the summer weather has been rather wet and cold, I had no trouble sewing a winter coat in my craft room.
I had already sewn a Lagan coat, but in a wonderful blue color. Some occasions ask for a more formal color, so I chose this amazing grey wool blend.
Pre-treating wool and wool blends is necessary. I didn’t wash the fabric, but I steamed it. This pattern needs quite a bit of various interfacings so check what’s needed in the instructions booklet then check what your fabric needs and adapt, if needed.
Cutting was extremely long, trust me! Beside the main fabric, you also had to cut lining and interfacings. My trusty rotary cutter did a perfect job. When dealing with heavy fabrics, do not cut on the fold: trace your whole piece, then cut it. Same with slippery fabric like lining: I much prefer cutting one single layer to prevent any shifting.
This Lagan coat is a rather fitted coat so you may need to sew a muslin first to get a good fit at the princess seams and to be sure that the waistband hits at the right place i.e. your natural waist.
Woolen fabrics, once sewn, need a bit of steam to behave and to get nice sharp lines. Using a clapper makes the job easier: a good steam then press the clapper on the seam. I usually steam the seam open, apply the clapper, then steam once again in the direction given by the instructions, and apply the clapper. You’ll get nice seam lines this way.
Grading seams is also important. My motto is “Wider to the world”, meaning “the longer seam allowance is the one that is on the outside”. I tend to cut the seam allowances in half (especially with 1/2 “ SA), then I cut the one that is not facing “the world” again. This step ensures that topstitching will not go over too thick seam allowances.
Speaking of topstitching, test your stitch length. Depending on your fabric, you may need to lengthen your straight stitch a bit.
I usually shorten my shoulder seam, but I love chunky shoulder pads in winter coats so I skipped this alteration for once.
I had grand ideas of sewing Spanish snap buttonholes instead of plain buttonholes. I did some tests, but really couldn’t get them right. I always had some puckers so I did traditional buttonholes instead. Do not hesitate to add another square of interfacing where you plan to sew your buttonholes (better safe than sorry). I found these lovely marble grey buttons, but I hesitated using some marble green ones I had been given by a friend’s mother, as a hint of the green in the lining. Since they’re the same size, I may change the greys for the greens over time.
This Lagan coat will be perfect for colder days and for more formal occasions. I plan to wear it with a chunky scarf…once knitted!
#itslagancoat #itchtostitch #minervabrandambassador #minervamakers #minervamakes #coat #winter #melton